Handbook / Fabric / Understanding GSM and fabric construction

Chapter 3 · The Apparel Handbook

Understanding GSM and fabric construction

What GSM measures, how fabric construction changes the result, and why weight alone never tells the whole story.

Chapters
  1. Fibres, fabric structures and blends
  2. Fabric weight and GSM
  3. Understanding GSM and fabric construction
  4. Garment construction and terminology
  5. Colour systems and colour approval
  6. Decoration methods
  7. Artwork preparation
  8. Fit, measurements and size charts
  9. Samples and production approvals
  10. Planning an apparel order
  11. Care and repeat ordering

Fabric weight is where many ordering conversations start. This chapter explains what GSM measures and how construction changes the result. The buying decision lives in the article on choosing fabric weight for a club hoodie.

Definitions

GSM
Grams per square metre. A measure of fabric weight.
Knit
Fabric made from interlocking loops of yarn.
Woven
Fabric made from yarns crossing at right angles.

GSM is a clue, not a verdict

Weight alone does not describe warmth, stretch or durability. Fibre, yarn and structure all contribute, so ask for the measured value and a physical sample.

Knit: loopsWoven: crossing yarns
Original diagram (draft). Not to scale.

A practical example

Practical example. Two quotes list the same GSM. One is brushed on the inside and one is not. Compare a physical sample before choosing.
← Fabric weight and GSM (planned)Garment construction and terminology (planned) →

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